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I did some testing of peel strength for ABS plastic/unfinished wood bonds using various glues. I found some interesting results and am continuing to test with additional glues and an improved method. TL;DR: Non-aqueous glues as a class outperformed the aqueous glues Testors 3505 and thin cyanoacrylate provided the strongest non-aqueous glue bonds Among the nontoxic water cleanup glues, Canopy 560 glue exhibited a significantly higher mean p…

Hi, I just saw the Trussrod repair/ new fretboard post by Dan Erlewine and Rodrigo Gomes. I really liked it, especially the idea of carving the fretboard with the table saw! I could not comment on the article. I am sure there was a reason for replacing the whole fingerboard in their case. I wanted to document an alternative method that I tried two weeks ago with sucess. I did not invent it though, i have seen it somewhere in the interne…

Lyon and Healy Parlor repair. Is there any good method to soften/release old hide glue and re-clamp to close the gap? The braces will be removed and new X bracing installed. This appears to be a very old repair using hide glue, but it wasn't quite closed up at the time of the original repair so the crack is still open. Its holding very well and we may just leave it. But wanted to run this by the group. Looking to perhaps steam it along t…

Hey guys, I’d love to get some suggestions on how to finish this repair aesthetically. The customer brought it in because this piece had split while trying to remove the saddle using a rubber mallet. My main concern is that the joint between the two pieces of wood is still visible. I was thinking of doing what I’ve always done: using wood dust mixed with CA glue or Titebond. But I was wondering if you guys use a different method that migh…

After several years of fighting with my bandsaw blade jumping off every few inches of cut (it needs a new bearing on the top wheel), I decided to try something bass-ackwards. I put the blade on with the teeth facing the 'wrong' direction. Not only did that solve the problem of the blade jumping off, but it has made the cutting of pickguard material much smoother. Has anyone else experienced this kind of situation? Do you have any other…

I've built a number of classical guitars with an adjustable neck and they seem to gather quite a bit of interest, so i'm currently in the process of looking to refine the design and build. It's quite a simple construction where the neck is held together by string tension and hangs on a pivot. I developed a 3d printed "socket" which acts as the interface between the body and the guitar and allows for some fine tuning of the alignment of t…

Question about splines: At what point are they necessary? My question is primarily regarding the crack to the left between the bridge and the sound hole as well as the crack at the upper bout that runs along the fingerboard extension. I have already glued them both and used the TJ cleats that run the full length of the cracks. I have already splined the lower bout crack that runs from the bridge to the binding as it was super gappy and d…

I am working on a neck reset on a Washburn Parlor - SN 283552. I have read that the 28 in the SN indicates that is was built in 1928, but the owner thinks based on her research that it was built before 1920. I am assuming a dovetail joint and that I can get into the neck joint for steaming by drilling into the 13th fret slot, but if anyone knows differently please let me know. The fingerboard extension has already separated slightly…

Good evening folks, lately I'm experiencing some sanding methods/mechanism frustration. Can't explain better than look like I'm regressing at doing it. The only thing changed in my building routine is that I'm currently using a CNC (I haven't used one for some years) for both bodies and necks. I have no problems with necks, but sanding bodies has become incredibly frustrating, specially around the edges. While I keep improving my c…

Hi all, new to nut slot work world, please can you help me with this mystery? fret levelling, neck relief and string action adjustment all completed to Fender 9.5" radius spec. very happy with that. the next step: 0.011” High E string’s nut slot was a bit low. I used Dave Johnson’s (MI Guitar Craft Academy) “q-tip slot raising method”: the pulled cotton strand, plus extra thin CA glue, to fill the slot, then trim it off once dry,…