I did some testing of peel strength for ABS plastic/unfinished wood bonds using various glues. I found some interesting results and am continuing to test with additional glues and an improved method. TL;DR: Non-aqueous glues as a class outperformed the aqueous glues Testors 3505 and thin cyanoacrylate provided the strongest non-aqueous glue bonds Among the nontoxic water cleanup glues, Canopy 560 glue exhibited a significantly higher mean p…
Working on this 1934/35 Regal built Dobro. It's a Model 37 roundneck in with a few issues-main ones being a bodgy slotted headstock repair, some missing binding, misaligned tailpiece, modified rim on the soundwell etc. It's been a gig pig on and off for the 30 years the current owner has had it. He want's to ditch the Barcus Berry PU, which was on it when he bought the guitar, and patch the hatchet work. I'm guessing the top was origina…
Would it also be worth shimming up the neck stick minimally to widen the gap a tiny bit to build some pressure into the glue ups when shim is removed later This part I don't quit understand. Could you…
Great video @member Hello People! Thanks for joining me for this binding repair video! We're working on a '72 Chet Atkins Nashville and a '60 Chet Atkins Country Gentleman. Cheers, Scotty D., Harpeth Guitar Restoration, LLC. Nashville, Tennessee
Hi John, Here's the results of my methodology for getting ABS to look like old celluloid... If you'd like me to walk you through it, feel free to reach out via Instagram or email.
Dovetail was 9/16” deep, and 1 9/16” wide at the back. 15th fret was 1 mm tail side of the end of the dovetail socket but a slight angulation towards the headstock landed in the right place. Hide glue, released easily. Nice everyday player, finish and binding beautiful, good spruce top, warped poplar neck.
The archived video and recent Council of Elders were very helpful in upping my binding reattachment game. Now I need to correct how much I've been charging! Someone mentioned that Martin pays $90/individual separation, I believe regardless of the length of the separation. Does this include finish repair, if needed? Any other guidelines on pricing for binding reattachment will be appreciated. Thanks! Neil
They pay $90 for binding repair “with touchup” and $80 without. Basically they always send the authorization for “with touchup” and never ask if it actually needs touchup. I tell customers “you dont w…
Hi all, I got a Do Santos DSMSCC RC in shop, the Spanish heel has failed , or rather collapsed into the soundboard, splitting it on both sides along the grain, a broken brace just under the fingerboard extension , cracks on both sides on the top/side bindings, I measured wood humidity on the fingerboard 9% and inside the (very inaccessible) body 11% The normal procedure would be to re-humidify before jacking or clamping back into place ,…
Question about splines: At what point are they necessary? My question is primarily regarding the crack to the left between the bridge and the sound hole as well as the crack at the upper bout that runs along the fingerboard extension. I have already glued them both and used the TJ cleats that run the full length of the cracks. I have already splined the lower bout crack that runs from the bridge to the binding as it was super gappy and d…
I have a Kalamazoo made epiphone with the most extreme fingerboard ramp I have seen. I have the neck dead straight from 1st fret to body joint and get a 1/16 of gap when I run a straight edge from 1st fret to the last fret. The frets average .040" but someone leveled the extension and those frets are half the height.
Does anyone have any suggestions for flattening the extension. Clamping a block on it? If I level the board during a r…
I found a pic which helped me see the situation. I think what I was mentioning before would work well. It looks like it would be easy to separate the short length of the fingerboard from the extensio…
Hello again folks, how is everyone!
So I'm curious about what people here think about re-tops, who's done them, and what sorta ballpark rates you've charged for past completed jobs.
I've got a bit of a wild one here, so strap in if you've got a couple minutes for story time!
Back in 2012, I traded an HD28V of mine for a cool 1966 D-35 that needed some work. Basically, the body and neck of the guitar were fine apart from…
Oh yes, it is absolutely not down to financial matters here, or I'd have abandoned it completely hahaha, I've been thinking more about it, perhaps I will take the plunge, and have a bit of silly fun w…
Good afternoon all. I have started the process of removing all the binding from the old Country Gentleman and it's going well. I did discover after removing the strings that the neck is pretty loose and moves around quite a bit (no surprises there). I removed the black plug on the back side of the body then removed the large regular (slot) screw that holds the neck in place. I thought the neck would just slide out considering how loose…
Just sharing some info to procrastinate my nth attempt at getting this thing together. and some venting. If you get one of these in with electronic issues, estimate high.
Customer brought in a Gretsch Rally in pieces that he picked up from the last repairman (who died), and just wants it to play. Minor binding repair and a weirdly-angled zero fret were relatively easy to deal with. The dead electronics are the main problem.…
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I would even consider using 2.5mm TRS or TRRS connectors. (Similar to what Guitar Fetish uses on their pickups.) That would allow modularity of the components, and even easier installation. Only drawb…
Someone recently contacted me about a Gretsch in need of some finish repairs on the binding. This looks to be nitro that has chipped/flaked off over the years and possibly yellowed by nicotine. I'm curious if any of you have experience with this type of repair and what the best way would be to go about it. I'm not anticipating taking this on but I would be interested in knowing the procedure. Thanks!
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