Would it also be worth shimming up the neck stick minimally to widen the gap a tiny bit to build some pressure into the glue ups when shim is removed later This part I don't quit understand. Could you…
Graph Tech have Ghost saddles for other styles of bridge too. Check out https://graphtech.com/collections/fender. You should get something that'll retrofit a two-point trem. Their Acoustiphonic preamp…
I'm with James on this. Sounds like you need to move backwards from the jack, isolating the outputs of both circuits to make sure each works on its own first. Unsolder the hots from the jack and try e…
Thanks Ian. I have seen the Doug and Dan video with TJ Thompson but could not find any others. I was thinking of splining the wider crack but it is cupped up. How would you handle that? Also looking i…
Could there be 2 glues in the picture? The tan/brown translucent glue looks like HHG. The purplish red-hued glue looks like Weldwood resorcinol, which was a 2 part powder/resin system. My father and I…
Alex, that looks like a tough customer given the amount of misalignment. If I wasn't sure about the neck pocket being a dovetail joint I would try something like this first - https://loothgroup.com/lo…
Hey Ian, it looks much better with the Fill and Finish CA! I still need to sand a few areas a little more and apply some gloss lacquer, but I think it’s going to turn out great! Thanks so much. It’s t…
With a break like this with plenty of surface area, I would just glue it without any additional supports. My glue of choice is hot hide glue, but there will be lots of opinions on that and many option…
Oops! Sorry for the redundant answer! Didn't see the previous replies.
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If you have some binding of the same color, take some acetone small amount, in a small container, that the acetone won't react with, glass or metal, and shave some binding material into it and make a paste. I usually leave it on the thin side. But not so much it will run out of the slot. Fill the slot with the paste and let it dry completely. It will melt into the exiting binding material. Then sand to shape. You'll probably need to touch it up with a little clear coat.
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Sometimes guys at Taylor would break the white binding on the extension of the T5's during refrets. White super glue never matched very well. I had great success with the Harbor Freight plastic welding thing and the stock white plastic it came with. It's like a super focused heat gun, your results may vary but if I had to do it again that's my game plan...
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Ian. I have learned so much from you and others here and am so greatful for this site. The most important thing I’ve learned, and I think it speaks to problem solving, is the importance of objectivity and being able to place yourself outside and look back in. And I think you have this ability. I really believe in the saying “nothing new under the sun”. Some one, somewhere has already come up with the solution, idea in another context/medium. We humans seem to shackle ourselves to human constructs like “traditional”, “vintage”, “value” etc. which keep us from expanding to solutions that can play well to those constructs. I find myself in these boxes all the time and have to continually remind myself to be objective. And I think being a rookie in guitar repair has actually been a big help in that I’ve been able to apply my other experiences to the world of wood and strings. Coming from the outside, as opposed to having learned repair skills from only having worked, from the beginning, on instruments.
What drew me to this group was watching a Ted Woodford vid where he took the leap and tried using electric heat probes to heat a neck joint to remove the neck. This was new and novel technique in it’s infancy and it fascinated me because, looking at this from a noobs perspective, but coming from having a lot of experience, this approach seemed to make perfect sense and I was baffled as to why this hadn’t been thought of before. Because, you see, I had no idea that steam was used, for decades, to remove necks. And after learning this, and thinking about it, I placed this in the category of “well, this is how it’s always been done” box. When Ted mentioned this guy Ian Davlin had come up with the idea of using dry heat, I thought to myself, here is a person who’s objective and coming up with solutions. And here I am.
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Ian’s right and I should have been more specific. Melted ABS will work well with both celluloid and ABS but melted celluloid doesn’t bight as well to ABS. The key is the acetone which melts both celluloid and ABS and will weld together both celluloid and ABS. A great vid to watch is Doug Proper vid fixing old celluloid binding with a mixture he uses. He chamfers edges of repair area so fill helps edges disappear. I like using ABS on old celluloid because it only takes two ingredients to make the paste. You can also thin the mix to any viscosity and use it to coat/blend in the edges as Ian suggests. You can also use different dyes and add to the mix to color match (aged ABS yellowing etc .). And you can use any ABS. It doesn’t have to be binding material. I’ve used white ABS plumbing pipe.
Interesting. I never knew abs slurry worked on abs. I always figured because it didn't like Duco that it was the acetone. As a result, there never was a ton of ABS around in the shops I worked in.
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Thank you everyone for your input, I really appreciate it!
Unfortunately the dremel isn't the best rotary tool for doing the slots due to the incredible amount of runout. You can use a proxxon, a Foredom, or an air rotary tool. TJ Thompson sells a base with a rotary too. Buck sells a base on loothtool.com which is quite good too.
You can use the white filler of your choice. Some are recommending white binding which works for sure if it's celluloid. It kinda looks like your binding is ABS, but hard to tell for sure. The melted celluloid will for sure fill the gap, but it wont bite in if the parent material is ABS, so it might not stick.
Also, with the melt in method, you still tend to still wind up with noticeable edges so I salt to taste with white pigment in an airbrush. I salt that to taste that with amber dye over the top if the lacquer has yellowed.
Sidenote, there are some really good options for cleaning slots out on a bound fingerboard with a rotary tool now.
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Melt some whit binding in some acetone & fill it in.
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Take some white binding material and melt in a glass container with acetone. Let sit over nite. By varying acetone to binding material ratio, you can make a paste. Apply the paste. The acetone content will melt the paste into the existing binding. It will set up quickly. Works great.
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After sleeping off the frustration, I’m thinking maybe some CA glue with some gluboost might do the job….
Or maybe jb weld plastic filler…
If anyone thinks either of these ideas will work, lmk.