Hey all. StewMac is looking for an experienced luthier (build and repair) to help us refine a series of articles for our website designed to enhance our SEO optimization (part time / contract). This work is remote and you will coordinate with our marketing team and SEO agency. The main objective will be editing and making suggestions to our team to ensure the quality of the information is accurate and reflects best practices within the cr…
We just ordered the StewMac buffer. Looking for ideas/photos for a hood(s) to remove all the particles flying off. We have a 4 inch 1250 cfm dust collection system. Thanks for any input. Tom K
Doug's solution is a lot better than mine. These do a pretty good job of catching the fluff when raking out the buffs. They are attached with a single bolt with a lock nut and swivel back out of the w…
Hey folks! I picked up a neck relief gauge from Doug in one of the earlier batches, maybe the introductory run? Some of the small feet caps that thread onto the moving legs of the tool have cracked, broken, or become worn down. I contacted StewMac about purchasing replacement parts, but they don't sell subparts for the relief gauge and otherwise won't help me. They appear 3D printed, so I was wondering if anyone with the means to print s…
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Ha! Mine took a freakish heicopter dive off the bench first day i had it and shattered the feet on each end ( flat style ) and i had hoped to sorce some replacements as well! Definitely looking to sou…
Hello All I have been using Ted Bergstrand's online nut calculator on Benchmuse.com which is excellent. It allows you to have a consistent gap between each strings vs the progressive gap that the Stewmac rule gives you. Or you can do consistent centers to the strings. I have definitely found measuring the nut with calipers to work a lot better than the stewmac rule and don't use the rule anymore. I wanted some additional functionality…
I'm looking the name and source for the rubber material found on the jaws of the Stewmac pattern makers vise and the Proper Work Station. Not having good search luck Thanks.
It's urethane rubber sheeting. I get it from McMaster-Carr. I think the wooden jaws on the Stewmac vise uses 1/16th" urethane. The Total Vise stuff is typically 1/8 inch. You can also get it in 3…
Hi friends,
I just stumbled upon a 1966 P-Bass, nearly completely original. The owner bought it in 1971 and it had already been stripped of its original finish. That was a thing back then. You can guess that 55 years of gigging had the wood absorb much of the owner’s DNA and sweat. Maybe a few beers as well. Surface was quite tacky as you can expect. I cleaned it with naphta and StewMac’c brand-new cleaner (quite a great product I'd say…
Ill chime in. Go with shellac first. It may be all you need and if you decide to go with something else, youve already applied the universal seal coat. Also, it has the best chance of sticking to any…
(for background context, I'm probably in the dozens of fret jobs so far, and no I don't let frets leave my house like this) When I got started getting interested in building guitars, I got the StewMac bundle of fret files/book, which comes with the concave toothed file. Over time, I ended up getting both the Narrow/Medium and Wide/Jumbo files. I don't do it often, but occasionally I do something like shown in the picture, where I'm clearl…
What you're depicting in the picture above is what typically happens when a hollow (toothed or diamond grit) file that is too small for the size of fret us used to try and introduce a crown to fret th…
This guitar appears to have been assembled with urea formaldehyde glue, which is insoluble in water and doesn’t melt at any reasonable temperature. It is definitely not hide glue or resorcinol.The neck pocket is not under a fret slot. Luckily, very little glue was used to assemble the neck and it was all on the cheeks of the tenon and the neck came off rather easily using a combination of the StewMac heat rod and foam cutters, with smal…
Let me start with this; I'm trying to find the root cause of difficult fret wire installation of two different SM fret wires. I've spent a lot of time gathering dimensions and experimenting with techniques wich could cause the problem. I enlisted the help of a colleague who arrived at a similar poor performance. His solution was to glue the fret ends/ beat the frets in. My "rather" is to find the root cause so I don't have to go thr…
Matching the fretwire to the fret slots (and visa-versa) is a huge subject. Dan and I did an entire episode of the Dan and Doug Show just on fret slots. I'll be revisiting the subject of fretwork in…
So the first real "full build" I'm doing is a Stewmac 000 kit. I was wondering about the back brace shape.
I'll was planning to taper the ends at the side joint to about 1.5mm.
Should I do some scalloping of the braces?
Suggestions and comments are welcomed and appreciated.
Regards,
Gerry
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There's nothing "wrong" with what you have pictured but it lacks some finesse. There are soooo many variables in play to worry about for a first build. If you want to practice some skills in this st…
Well, I am pulling my hair out here...
just did a compression fret job on a 2017 D18 Authentic 1939. Neck had severe excess relief, so I pulled the frets, planed the board flat, and got to work....done this a handfull of times, so I wasnt expecting anything out of the ordinary......
I got a handful of frets in, checked my relief by stringing up the guitar, and decided I need to keep pushing, so I got a full set of frets in and som…
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Hi Jonathan, I can feel the frustration in your original question posted. We've all had guitars that were uncooperative on our benches and it can be exasperating.Unless I mis-read your original pos…
Hi all,
I am a newer guitar tech and after dozens of repairs this particular Simon & Patrick Luthier Cedar top SP6 acoustic dreadnought from the 90-ies with a bolt-on maple neck has been an incredible challenge.
It came with a maxed out and stuck truss rod with a considerable up bow in the neck, extremely low saddle with barely any string break angle, so it needed a neck reset. Later on I figured out that it also has a pretty dras…
I bought the StewMac fret jaws and am hoping to sell the heavy press. I can't imagine shipping it but if you're in Northwest Alabama come by and buy this from me. Buddy Guy is playing here at the end of the month and we have Jason Isbel and the Drive By Truckers playing here for Shoals Fest some time this summer.
Here’s the one I bought a few years ago after one of my buddies developed cancer in his nasal cavity due to a lifetime of soldering unprotected. Still works great pulling and filtering fumes. You can…
Greetings,
I'm doing some research on suppliers for Brazilian Rosewood. I see there is more available than I imagined but pricing is all over the board. I came across a group named HanoverBrazil Marketing and Trade. Looks like they import product from Brazil legally apparently from stumps which are CITES certified. Anyone have expirience with them?
Or, any recomendations for a reputable vendor for Brazilian Rosewood "000" or larger…
I'm fast approaching the finish coating of 2 acousitcs. The sitka spruce tops are really bright. I'd like to tone them down a little and have been scouring the web for methods. Seems like adding amber toner in either the sand sealer or more likely the first set of nitro lacquer coats might be the the ticket. I see Stewmac has a Colortone stain called "Vintage Amber" that can be mixed into the nitro. Anybody have expirience with this pro…
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Hi Gerry, I recommend spraying a sealer chow it a light scuff and then one more sealer coat. If you are using lacquer, thin some 50% by volume and add TransTint or Colortone. Same dye and some of the…
Hi everyone! I'm trying to wrap my head around this problem. I was doing some fret on a throwaway neck and found a couple of uneven frets in the middle of the neck. (I made sure to seat them down before levelling too!) While levelling, I came across an issue where the first few frets and the last few frets were being sanded down before the middle frets. I did make sure the neck was straight with a notched straight edge and the StewMac n…
The notched straight edges isn't the best tool for finding the starting position before a fret leveling. Primarily what you need to know is, without the truss rod being either completely loose or rea…
Hi, I have a 1950's Gibson LG-3 that's had some poor work done to the spruce under the area of the bridge where the spruce has pulled away and or been sanded excessively. It's missing about .020-0.30 thou of spruce and I'm wondering/looking for advice about how to go about splicing in a thin piece of spruce before I re-glue the bridge. Please see pictures attached. My main questions are: glues for the patch, should the patch be mitered…
When faced with a similar job recently, I chose to glue the patch in place with epoxy, then used hide glue to reset the bridge. The logic being that 20 years from now when someone needs to reset the…